User manual / checklist?

[Sarterfish]

Hi all, and happy campy Friday! Has anyone here put together a "checklist" or manual for driving, parking, and camping? Sort of an "Operation manual for the B190 Dummy"? My son wants to borrow the van for camping, and something like this would be extremely helpful for letting family and friends use my new van.
I started putting one together, but figured someone has probably already done this and refined it. Why "reinvent the wheel"?

[Sarterfish]

In case anyone is interested, I put together a "user manual" for people for the B190. It can be used as a checklist but it is a bit more in-depth as well, in order to educate people I may rent or loan the "Wild Hair" to. The full text is here, because I couldn;t figure out how to upload a word doc to the site.

WELCOME TO THE “WILD HAIR”
AIRSTREAM B 180 OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS

DRIVING THE “WILD HAIR”:
She’s a beast! Her “name” comes from the “sudden urge” we had to “get out of Dodge” with our 3 Chi-mix pups and explore the great outdoors! We did our research and found this awesome little gem that’s been well cared for and loved! Check out this blog on the evolution of the “camper van” and Airstream’s place in it.
There’s a saying in one of the B190 User groups; “Remember, it’s not a slow car it’s a fast house!” There is a LOT of equipment and weight onboard (9000 lbs. +) as this van has everything you need to live off grid for an extended period of time if desired. The van as such is quite top heavy and you will notice its sway and swagger a bit, more so on uneven and winding roads. It also has a “sail” like effect in high winds, so be careful when driving in windy conditions and winding roads! We hope this manual will help you on your journey to navigate through your own life’s “winding road”.
BEFORE YOU GO:
- Be sure the propane is turned off at the tank and all exterior connections are shut tight.
- Make certain the awning is fully retracted and seated in the casing properly.
- Pick up and stow any leveling blocks that may have been under the van. Once you’ve driven off the blocks, set the van to “Park” and put on the emergency brake before going out to get the blocks and putting them back in the van.
- If you need to back up, be very careful. Use the mirrors and backup camera (if available), as this van is even longer than it looks in the mirrors, especially with the bike rack on.
- Set the fridge fuel dial to “electric” as the engine’s alternator will provide 120v current while driving and idling.
- Be sure the “lock” is on the fridge door while driving. Simply turn the lock to close or open it for use while driving or camping.
- Stowing the burner tops and microwave turntable in a secure place will minimize noise while driving. BE CAREFUL where you stow these if they are dirty from cooking, use paper towels or rags to protect other parts of the van from grease or food debris. If it’s dirty, clean before stowing.

PARKING FOR CAMPING:
- Be very careful of ground clearance obstructions! The rear of the RV in particular has the black tank hanging quite low to the ground. Be careful with your “angle of departure” when driving or backing into driveways, up or down hills with sudden changes in grade, etc. Have someone spot you and keep an eye on the underbody clearances, especially while backing up!

- Park in a level a spot as you can, then use the leveling blocks to get the RV level. The refrigerator will not work if the van is not level, and it is bad for the generator to run when it is not level as well. It will also be difficult to sleep comfortably.

- Any time the vehicle is parked for several hours with the refrigerator operating, the vehicle should be leveled to prevent loss of cooling from ammonia blockage in the evaporator tubing. The vehicle needs to be leveled only so it is comfortable to live in (no noticeable sloping of floor or walls). When the vehicle is moving the leveling is not critical, as the rolling and pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side of level - keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing. When the vehicle is moving the leveling is not critical, as the rolling and pitching movement of the vehicle will pass to either side of level - keeping the liquid ammonia from accumulating in the evaporator tubing.

- Put the van in “Park” and set the brake. Blocking the wheels with a chock of some kind is also a good idea for extra insurance.

- Face the side with the awning to the North when in a hot location, and to the South in a cold location whenever possible. This will help the interior and exterior areas around the van to be more comfortable and energy efficient as well.

- Please always use the reflective dash cover when parked and using the curtains will help keep the sun out in hot locations, reducing the need for AC and fans, and saving fuel and battery charge.

SETTING UP TO CAMP:
- REFRIDGERTOR – When driving, the fridge should be powered electrically on 12V setting. If it was cold before you hit the road and you don’t open it while in the road that should keep things cold enough. When “boondock” camping, (no electrical hookups) use propane fuel to minimize battery drain. The 12V will not last long if you use it, and it is not very “cold” so opening the fridge would warm it up quickly. The dial on the fridge needs to be moved to “propane” and it needs to be fired up with the igniters under the fridge. Instructions are written in the lower casing surface inside the door. If you’re in a site that has 110V power available, definitely use that for the fridge and anything else electrical.

- AC – The overhead AC can only run when the generator is on. The generator start switch is in the upper left cabinet over the sink counter. The front AC can only run when the engine is on.

- GENERATOR - The generator might “cough” a little on first startup, so wait until it’s running smoothly for A/C, microwave, or other electrical use. As discussed above, the generator will only run with ½ tank of gas or more, plan accordingly! The generator can be used for the A/C or the microwave, but not both at the same time. It will also power the 110V outlets inside and on the exterior of the camper. I have included an onboard induction cooktop for use in camp sites or the onboard 110V outlets. However, turning on a generator to use an induction top seems like it would defeat the purpose of saving propane/gas or reducing emissions, so I recommend using the induction plate while plugged into city or campsite power only.

- MICROWAVE - The generator or a city/campsite electrical hookup are required to use it. It works just like a normal microwave. Don’t burn the popcorn!! Remember, the AC and the micro will NOT both work at the same time. There is a switch in the cabinet where the generator starter is that let you choose between AC and Microwave.


- WATER – The onboard tank is adequate for shorter stays, 1-2 nights or more, depending on how well you conserve. For longer camp site stays, it’s best to hook up to a camp site or city water supply if there is one. CAUTION: The water pump must be turned off when hooked up to city or camp site water supply and when you leave your Airstream unattended. Use the hose in the storage compartment on the driver’s side, in front of and lower than the generator hatch. There is a filter on this hose to keep any contaminants from getting into the plumbing system. There is an extra hose in case you need more length to connect. The city/camp site water hook up is on the left (roadside) of the vehicle behind the rear wheel well.
After hooking up the hose and turning on the city water valve provided in the park, slowly open a faucet. There will be a lot of spurts and sputtering until all the air is expelled from the system. If the water heater is empty, it will take some time before all the air is expelled and you get a steady flow of water at the faucet. Once a steady flow is achieved at one faucet, the others should be opened long enough to expel the air in the lines going to them. During city water operation the water pump switch should be in the off position.

The switch for the water pump is located on the monitor panel on the range hood. Before turning it on make sure your freshwater tank has water in it, (also on the monitor panel). To operate, turn the pump switch on and open the hot side of a faucet. It is normal for the faucet to spit and sputter prior to getting a full stream of water. If the system has been drained, this may take a few minutes since the pump is forcing water into the water heater and a solid stream of water won't be obtained until the water heater is completely filled. Once you have a full stream of water on the hot side, turn it off and open the cold side. You will get the same spit and sputter, but only for a few moments as air is being purged. Repeat with the other faucets and the toilet so the air is all purged. Now when the faucets are all turned off the pump will quit running automatically. Whenever a faucet is opened the pump will run until the faucet is closed. If a faucet is only open a small amount the pump will cycle rapidly on and off. This is not harmful to the pump. The pump switch should be turned off when the motorhome is unattended.

- WATER HEATER - The water heater “on” switch is in the upper cabinet to the left of the kitchen sink. Flip it on and you should hear the propane burner kick on. It won’t be long until the 6 gallon tank is ready for your first well-earned hot shower after that looong sweaty mtb ride, run, hike, or whatever got you all hot and sweaty! Remember, you have a finite amount of water! To conserve your freshwater, wet down then turn off the water with the button on the shower head. Soap up and scrub and then push the button on the shower head again to rinse. Your pre-set temp will be the same so you won’t freeze or be scalded.

- TOILET – the water pump or city/campsite water must be on to flush the toilet. If you went #2, Be sure to put one scoop of “digester” powder in the toilet before you flush the toilet, or the black water tank will smell and become clogged. OPERATION To flush, pull forward on the lever until water swirls, then release. A short delay between pulling the lever and getting a good swirl is to be expected. This delay is used to build up an internal water supply which ensures a proper bowl refill, required for odor control, after the lever is released. ONLY USE TOILET PAPER SPECIFIC FOR SEPTIC SYSTEMS OR CAMPER VANS. Colored toilet tissue is slower to dissolve than white. Most RV accessory stores offer tissue designed for RVs that will completely dissolve. For extended trips you may need to empty the “black water” (toilet) and “grey water” (sinks and shower) holding tanks.
On the monitor panel only "HOLDING TANK l" is used on the drain system. You should check frequently to avoid overfilling. An overfilled tank will back up into the toilet first, then the shower. An unpleasant cleaning job to say the least. EMPTYING TANKS Almost all campgrounds will have dumping facilities. Park directories such as “Woodall’s” and “Rand McNally” also list dumping stations. To empty the tank, attach the sewer hose by pressing the bayonet fitting onto the dump valve outlet and rotate clockwise until it feels solid and secure. Attach the outlet end of the hose to the sewage outlet, making sure that the hose is placed so it will drain completely. Pull the dump valve handle as far as it will go and wait until the tank is drained. The holding tank must be flushed out until all paper and waste material is removed. Close the dump valve and refill the tank with clean water and repeat until clean. Replace the cap prior to traveling. For longer stays, you can connect to a sewer outlet if available at the camp site.

WHEN PARKED AND CONNECTED TO SEWER OUTLET - When you are in a park and connected to a sewer outlet keep the holding tank dump valve closed, and empty the tank whenever it becomes almost full. ONLY BY SENDING A LARGE VOLUME OF LIQUID THROUGH THE HOLDING TANK AT ONE TIME WILL TOILET PAPER AND OTHER SOLIDS COMPLETELY WASH AWAY. This practice will avoid the accumulation of solids in the holding tank which could lead to an unpleasant cleaning job, and nonfunctional tank gauge. Should solids accumulate, close the dump valve, fill the tank about half full with water, then drive for a few miles. The turbulence and surging of the water will usually dissolve the solids into suspension so the tank can be drained.

- SHOWER – Use the shower outside the back of the van, with doors open, whenever possible. Use the shower curtain we've provided, across the open doors for privacy. If used inside, the van must be parked level for the shower to drain properly! Be sure the curtain is pulled all the way around the shower pan, and sealed with the Velcro closures to be sure no water damages the cabinets or leaks into other parts of the van. Be certain that the bottom of the curtain is completely inside the shower pan.

RANGE/OVEN – ALWAYS USE THE RANGE HOOD EXHAUST IF COOKING WITH THE RANGE OR OVEN! Burning gas creates toxic fumes and CO2, and needs to be exhausted to the outside! Best to cook outdoors with the Coleman stove and table provided in the back of the van. But if you are forced to cook inside, the range exhaust has two switches. One for the fan blower motor, and the second for a light.
MAKE SURE ALL BURNER AND RANGE VALVES ARE IN THE OFF POSITION prior to turning on the propane valve at the tank! The propane must be turned on at the exterior tank under the passenger side steps. THERE ARE NO PILOT FLAMES; burners must be lit manually with a “fire stick”, match, or lighter. Turn the gas valve for a burner on while you already have an ignition source in place to light it. DO NOT TURN ON A GAS BURNER PRIOR TO LIGHTING OR AN EXPLOSION AND FIRE COULD RESULT!!


ELECTRICAL OPERATION - The lights and appliances in The Wild Hair are operated by 12-volt D.C. current. This means the “state of charge” of your battery is important to the operation of the vehicle. The battery is charged from two different sources. When you drive, current is supplied to the coach battery from the alternator and through the isolator. The electric current can flow from the alternator to the coach, battery, but once the ignition key is turned off the circuit is broken. This prevents you from accidentally running down your engine battery if you leave an interior light on or fan running. The second method of charging your coach battery is through the 110-volt converter when you are plugged into city/campsite power. If we call the converter an automatic battery charger it is easier to understand. The converter not only charges the battery but will also provide "load" current at the same time, running all appliances, lights, and 120V outlets. Note: It should be noted if you are driving or plugged into 110 volt current the monitor panel battery condition meter will be sensing the charging voltage and not the actual battery status.

LIGHTS - The lights all have switches adjacent to them, plus a remote switch on the bunk lights. The remote switch is located in the forward end of the overhead cabinet on the driver's side. You will appreciate it the first time someone crawls down out of the bunk and forgets to turn the lights off.

ROOF VENTS - The roof vent over the bunk includes a 12-volt fan that automatically starts once the power is turned on by the remote control hanging on the driver’s side cabinet next to the bunk. The fan hood will automatically open when you turn the fan on with the remote. You can control the fan speed and direction (exhaust or intake) with the remote.
There is also a vent fan in the bathroom to remove humid air from showering or odors from toilet use. To operate, push the handle upward gently and then turn the switch clockwise to start the fan.
Please remember to use the fans only when needed and turn them off after in order to preserve coach battery life and operation.

RANGE EXHAUST - ALWAYS USE THE RANGE HOOD EXHAUST IF COOKING WITH THE RANGE OR OVEN! Burning gas creates toxic fumes and CO2, and needs to be exhausted to the outside! Best to cook outdoors with the Coleman stove and table provided in the back of the van. But if you are forced to cook inside, the range exhaust has two switches. One for the fan blower motor, and the second for a light.

MONITOR PANEL - The Micro Monitor panel on the range hood is used so you can easily tell how much water is in your freshwater tank, black and grey water holding tanks and the state of charge of the coach battery, and a propane tank gauge. The propane gauge is not working properly so be very aware of, and judicious with, your propane usage. Also included on the panel is the water pump on/off switch. The black water tank is not necessarily accurate, as waste sometimes accumulate and clog the sensor.

HOPEFULLY You’ve read this “Wild Hair” user manual completely. NOW you’re ready to get out there and hit the happy, campy road! Happy Trails! …and enjoy your own personal adventure~!!
If you have ANY questions at all, CALL ME!
- John