B190 Enthusiasts

I take it this is the stock converter, the single phase, that I want to replace w/ a 3 phase unit. Which unit are people leaning towards today and how easy for a some what mechanically inclined numb nuts to do.

I looked at Skaters old post on replacing his converter and per the pics, mine is the same model. I may have to give those people a call and see what converter is recommended these days.

I’d stick close to the same amp rating when replacing. You might be tempted to go higher, because you sure can, but the amp rating is there for a reason.

I had ended up ordering the bigger amp model, much as Skater did but they sent me the smaller one, got it installed ...

usachris wrote:I’d stick close to the same amp rating when replacing. You might be tempted to go higher, because you sure can, but the amp rating is there for a reason.

A larger one isn’t a problem. It just means you’d theoretically be able to run more 12 volt appliances simultaneously and still recharge your battery. There’s more than enough AC power available.

Example 30 amps at 12 volts is 360 Watts, which is 3 amps at 120 volts. The 60 amp converter would draw at most 6 amps - and then only when you are actually using 60 amps of DC power in the coach, which probably isn’t even physically possible.

Isn’t there a danger in running more power through wire harnesses that are rated for far less? Not sure Airstream installed wire harnesses that could power more appliances simultaneously.

usachris wrote:Isn’t there a danger in running more power through wire harnesses that are rated for far less? Not sure Airstream installed wire harnesses that could power more appliances simultaneously.

Yes, there could be. To be absolutely safe, you would want to check the gauge of the wire running from the converter to the panel. I would have to look at mine to see what it was, but it was pretty beefy. For that short of a run, even 6 gauge might be sufficient. The run to the battery is also pretty heavy cable. It’s at least the size of the battery cable I replaced.

I also went with the 60 also because I was concerned about the size of the 45 - it looked to tall to fit. Double check the measurements.

I also replaced the fuse panel, and the new one has master fuses of a certain size (I think 20 amps, actually), so there’s another layer of protection.

Yes, the 35 and the 60 were the only ones to fit in the current opening. The 45 is too tall.

usachris wrote:Yes, the 35 and the 60 were the only ones to fit in the current opening. The 45 is too tall.

Hmm, I don’t remember a 35 model option when I replaced mine. I’m pretty sure 45 was the smallest.

I got mine from Progressive Dynamics. They list the following for sale:

Inteli-Power 55 Amp Converter/Charger
Model #PD4655V replaces these converter sections:
Parallax/Magnatek #6355, Parallax #7355, Parallax #7155,
Parallax #8355, WFCO™ #8955

Inteli-Power 45 Amp Converter/Charger
Model #PD4645V replaces these converter sections:
Parallax/Magnatek #6345, Parallax #7345, Parallax #8345
WFCO™ #8945

Inteli-Power 35 Amp Converter/Charger
Model #PD4635V replaces these converter sections:
Parallax/Magnatek #6336, WFCO™ #8935

So no 60 but a 55 instead. I do remember the 45 being too tall.

I replaced the one in our trailer 6 years ago now, and the B190 was several years before that, so it’s not surprising there are new options.

Hi Chris, Thanks for welcoming me to the site. I have a question about replacing my converter. I have the original B-W Manufacturing Model 6332 and it seems to be working fine but I just bought a new AGM house battery and I don't want to ruin it by overcharging it. So I'm looking at replacing the converter. I noticed you listed a number of converters and was wondering which one you went with. Should I stick with the 35 amp or move up to the 55 amp model. I might want to add solar in the future too. I'm fine with spending a little extra for the 55 amp especially if it gives me more options in the future, I just don't want to over load anything. My rig is a 96 Ford with the 97 Model Airstream. Also is it worth adding a switch to turn off the system and if so where would I put that switch? Mine has no disconnect switch that I can find. Thanks, Julie

I just sent you a PM but I’ll post it here as well:

I stuck with the original rating when replacing the converter - my thinking was that all the wiring was rated for that size controller. Skater went with a larger one - the thinking was a fuse would blow before the wiring caught fire.

I also installed 2 - 6v deep cycle marine AGM batteries for 440 total amp hours. Lifeline batteries are very good for RV application purposes - it’s more than I need but nice to have since I am running a compressor refrigerator.

My Factory installed battery disconnect is located in the long-skinny storage bay behind the drivers door, located on the outside of the van. Open the bay door and mine is located on the back wall of the storage bay.

Great chatting with you! Please don’t hesitate to reach out with any further questions. My wife and I have completed dozens of projects on our b190. You can check out a few of them in my photo gallery.

usachris wrote:I just sent you a PM but I’ll post it here as well:

I stuck with the original rating when replacing the converter - my thinking was that all the wiring was rated for that size controller. Skater went with a larger one - the thinking was a fuse would blow before the wiring caught fire.

I also installed 2 - 6v deep cycle marine AGM batteries for 440 total amp hours. Lifeline batteries are very good for RV application purposes - it’s more than I need but nice to have since I am running a compressor refrigerator.

My Factory installed battery disconnect is located in the long-skinny storage bay behind the drivers door, located on the outside of the van. Open the bay door and mine is located on the back wall of the storage bay.

Great chatting with you! Please don’t hesitate to reach out with any further questions. My wife and I have completed dozens of projects on our b190. You can check out a few of them in my photo gallery.

I think you might be mistaken on your 440ah with 2 6v im assuming they are 220 ah each?
You can dubble voltage or amp hours but not both.
I looked at the same thing but decided to go with two group 31 agm 110ah each giving me 220ah. Reasoning is if one battery goes bad while im away it can be disconnected and I still have full use of the system.
Along with a new converter/smart charger and trimethic monitor. With a new 12v fuse panel all wired with ultra flex #4 wielding lead all soldered connections heat shrinked and dubble insulated.
We went to oregon for 8 days just after I finished works great. Last week we went to the coast 4 days. I has unplugged it on the wendsday before to go to the wash. We left on Tuesday morning. Without plugging in or running the generator friday afternoon it was at 12.3 volts. Running lighting tv dvd furnace water pump and my C-pap machine which draws 3-6 amps depending on what its brain decides I need. It actually runs on 12v dc. Im happy with the system shure better than that group 50 under the hood. The two systems are totally isolated I thought of adding a switch to hook both together but that would get really complicated having to run all grounds thrue a shunt for the monitor system. [IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... 03ea28.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... 15e8f0.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... f384f7.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... da0ac2.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... e73f1f.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... e03d70.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... a7f128.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... 23094c.jpg[/IMG][IMG]//uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201809 ... 7d1803.jpg[/IMG]

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