Moreflo DSI 6

Refrigerator, stove, furnace, water pump, air conditioner, microwave, water heater, fans, lighting
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Kyle
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Moreflo DSI 6

Post by Kyle »

I finally got a chance to play with my B190 this weekend. Everything seems to work well, other than the water heater is burning erractically. I pulled out the parts and cleaned them, put them back in and still the same issue. In removing some of the parts to be cleaned i attempted to remove the brass orfice piece. Well, it did not want to come loose, Now I am in need of a new assembly. The problem is that the water heater is a Moreflo DSI 6. I am looking for parts to replace them damaged ones with. Since it is the propane assembly that is damaged, can I go to the local propane shop and get the parts or find out what happened to Moreflo? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Alaskan
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Post by Alaskan »

These water heaters can be very noisy with a flame that seems unstable at the same time.

Its usually caused by the air intake being out of adjustment...

Look in this picture below, about center you'll see a small screw, loosen the screw and gently slide that aluminum slider left or right to either decrease or increase the air being induced into the flame..... you'll find its happy spot where it will quiet right down and burn much better

Image

When its burning correctly the flame should look like this...

Image
Last edited by Alaskan on Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
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skater
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Post by skater »

Alaskan wrote:These water heaters can be very noisy with a flame that seems unstable at the same time.

Its usually caused by the air intake being out of adjustment...

Look in this picture below, about center you'll see a small screw, loosen the screw and gently slide that aluminum slider left or right to either decrease or increase the air being induced into the flame..... you'll find its happy spot where it will quiet right down and burn much better
Good advice but it sounds like something broke while he was working on it. :(

I did a couple quick web searches for that brand of water heater, but I couldn't find them. I've never heard of them, either - Atwood and Suburban were all I've ever heard of.
1991 Airstream B190 - bought, 2005; sold, 2011; bought 2017
1995 Airstream Excella 30' trailer

WBCCI #13270, Washington, DC Unit
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Kyle
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Post by Kyle »

Well, after I took the part to the local propane shop the guy said that the orifice and burner manifold were in good shape. I reassembled it, adjusted the air shutter, and it wants to work. When it first lights the flame looks erratic, but it will then begin to burn birght blue(from what i hear is correct)as soon as the elements on the electric starter warm up then the flame just quits. Keep in mind that mine does not look like yours. Again, i know i am going to have to get some pics up for you to know exactly what i am talking about. It also might be time to replace the whole burner assembly. Mine is NOWHERE as clean as your is, alot of rust has accumulated on everything to the right of YOUR aire shuuter, even where the flame enters the side of the water tank. I have cleaned that out with an air hose. Please let me know if this helps.
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skater
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Post by skater »

Alaskan just replaced his water heater, that's why it's so clean. :) Mine is rustier, too, and that's normal. (Totally unrelated thing that just occurred to me: Ever see the Simpsons episode where Homer becomes Poochy? "Cue the rusty chainsaw." *brrrrr* "RUSTIER!" *BRRRRR*)

I would first suspect a thermostat problem, but if it is actually doing that because the electronics heating up and causing the problem, you might have to replace them.
1991 Airstream B190 - bought, 2005; sold, 2011; bought 2017
1995 Airstream Excella 30' trailer

WBCCI #13270, Washington, DC Unit
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Alaskan
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Post by Alaskan »

Actually I did whats called a re-line which only involves the aluminum tank and interior pieces per this thread below

That outer piece pictured above is original

http://b190.com/modules.php?name=Forums ... opic&t=133


Sounds like Klye needs a replacement water heater or at least replace the electronic controls....

On the Atwood, if you look in my Tank Replacement thread, you'll see the 2 temp sensors that control the burner....they are behind that black pad shown in the picture above
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Alaskan
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Post by Alaskan »

Mor-Flo by American Appliance.....I don't see where these guys are still in business by checking the net

Just parts in several places..

Time to upgrade Kyle.....look on eBay to avoid the RV Industry prices
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Kyle
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Post by Kyle »

Yeah, that's what I am finding out. I appreciate you and Skater's input. I am going to take it to a local shop and see if by chance we can jump start . Hopefully last until winter. Thanks again. I am sure you will see more post in the future.
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Alaskan
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Post by Alaskan »

Its not already winter in Georgia....???
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Kyle
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Post by Kyle »

The temp is starting to dip toward the middle 50's. Pretty chilly at night with the low around 28. HAHA. Probably does not even compare with Alaska!!!
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Kyle
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Post by Kyle »

Forgot to add this part. I took the water heater to the shop and the guy said he would look around for a replacment board and play with it to see if it will stay lit. Will keep you updated.
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Alaskan
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Post by Alaskan »

Thanks Kyle..... looks like you're working in several area's on your rig

If you find it necessary to purchase a Control Board look into Dinosaur Electronics....their replacement boards are well known and have some features that the original boards didn't have.

You may have to call them due to the age and manufacturer of your water heater

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Dom_boards.htm

I wonder if that Mor-Flo was original in your 1989

Dinosaur Control Board with optional cover...much better than the original one

Image
Last edited by Alaskan on Fri Sep 04, 2009 1:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
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skater
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Post by skater »

Off-topic, but Alaskan: Good idea with the hose-barb connection there. The last few times I've drained my water heater, the electronics got wet and the thing didn't want to start. I had to start it manually - which is a TRICK to do alone...
1991 Airstream B190 - bought, 2005; sold, 2011; bought 2017
1995 Airstream Excella 30' trailer

WBCCI #13270, Washington, DC Unit
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Kyle
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Post by Kyle »

After speaking with Chad from Dinosaur Elec, I think I have come to the decision to buy a new water heater. Chad was extremly helpful, I cannot justify speind $125.00 on a 20 year old water heater. Any suggestions on a particular brand that will allow you to work on it with out having to pull the unit completley out?
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skater
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Post by skater »

Usually the only time you pull a water heater out completely is when you're replacing it. You should be able to do everything else from the exterior panel.

Take a look in the gallery, in my pictures. There are pictures I took of the back of the water heater. If you have that same pipe (gray plastic), you'll need to find Qest brand fittings for it, OR you can find the crimp tool and metal crimp bands. Probably have better luck finding the Qest fittings.

While you're messing around with it I suggest installing a water heater bypass... oh wait, you'll probably never winterize it, will you? Never mind! :) (Though a bypass might make your camper more appealing to another purchaser.)

As for brands, Atwood and Suburban are pretty much standard among all campers, and I don't think you'd go wrong with either one.
1991 Airstream B190 - bought, 2005; sold, 2011; bought 2017
1995 Airstream Excella 30' trailer

WBCCI #13270, Washington, DC Unit
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