B190 Enthusiasts

190-b-651 wrote:Good luck. Check the voltage to the pump also and have someone mess with the switch at the same time. It may be making good contact. One sign of that is fuel gauge acting funny.

Turns out my brother happens to be an expert on the 460s with the dual fuel tanks. I figured he'd worked on them from time to time when he was at a Ford dealer, but apparently he worked on them a lot. He strongly recommended using a fuel pressure gauge to see what's going on with the fuel issue. Looks like I can borrow one from Autozone, so that's my next step.

As you said, I'll check the contacts as well - who knows, maybe I'll get lucky.

That’s what was wrong with mine. The rear tank fuel was bad. We didn’t smell it and filled both tanks. Then we flipped the tank selector and apparently left it on the rear. Had to replace both fuel pumps. Also affected the generator, which isn’t working again yet.

190-b-651 wrote:If yours has twin tanks thats what the symptoms of a bad pump. One of three I bleave one in each tank "lift pump"
And a pump on the line.

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Sub2RainEN wrote:That’s what was wrong with mine. The rear tank fuel was bad. We didn’t smell it and filled both tanks. Then we flipped the tank selector and apparently left it on the rear. Had to replace both fuel pumps. Also affected the generator, which isn’t working again yet.

190-b-651 wrote:If yours has twin tanks thats what the symptoms of a bad pump. One of three I bleave one in each tank "lift pump"
And a pump on the line.

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Ugh. I’m hoping to avoid replacing the in-tank pumps.

I was looking at the troubleshooting guide today and one step is checking the voltage. I saw something else that made me wonder about the electrical system (weak starting battery, although it’s new), so maybe that’s the issue I’m having. I hope. I’d rather replace an alternator!

The voltage was low, so I replaced the alternator, but the engine still died. I’ll borrow a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and go from there. I saw the Schrader valve on the fuel rail while I was working on the alt.

Good luck hope its the cheapest part in the system

skater wrote:The voltage was low, so I replaced the alternator, but the engine still died. I’ll borrow a fuel pressure gauge tomorrow and go from there. I saw the Schrader valve on the fuel rail while I was working on the alt.

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190-b-651 wrote:Good luck hope its the cheapest part in the system

Well, I’ve determined the fuel pressure regulator is bad (probably clogged due to the bad gasoline). The high pressure pump may also be bad, but definitely at least the regulator. I just bought one at the local auto parts store that I’ll pick up tomorrow. Old one is already off - what a bear that is (actually, just the third bolt was hard!). It was only $22, fortunately.

After I get the new one installed I need to run the pressure tests again to check the pump.

$22 bucks thats not bad hopefully its the weak link.

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Looks like the fuel pump is bad.

Got the fridge out yesterday. That was easier than I expected. For my reference it’s 29.5” tall and 20.25” wide (cutout dimensions). About 20.375” deep.

Right now I’m “burping” it by leaving it upside down, then on its sides, to see if it will improve performance. Both sets of coils in the back are 3” deep, which is useful to know because I’m considering installing computer fans on them.

Picture of the back of the fridge if anyone is curious. I’m going to clean the coils and see about installing a fan on the lower set (fridge coils), since that’s where I’m having trouble. Well, maybe both.



It’s pretty rusted. I’m mainly hoping to get a bit more time out of it.

If you haven't already, you might want to confirm that your B190 is configured with the manufacturer's latest installation recommendations. For example, on our Norcold, the installation manual recommends adding insulation batting in the spaces on the sides and top and also has specific recommendations for baffles to be added to the inner wall of the B190 to make sure that the air flows properly across the heat exchanger coils.

Airstream did not take either of the above measures with the factory fridge that was in our B190 previously. So I did them during my install of the new unit.

I also added window screen to the back side of the upper and lower ventilation grills to keep wasp from building nest in there.

Our unit works great on propane and 120 volt when the vehicle is stationary. We still have to watch it closely when driving. My guess is the airflow down the side of the B190 can sometimes interfere with the normal convection cooling on the back side of the fridge.

Kentuckian wrote:If you haven't already, you might want to confirm that your B190 is configured with the manufacturer's latest installation recommendations. For example, on our Norcold, the installation manual recommends adding insulation batting in the spaces on the sides and top and also has specific recommendations for baffles to be added to the inner wall of the B190 to make sure that the air flows properly across the heat exchanger coils.

Airstream did not take either of the above measures with the factory fridge that was in our B190 previously. So I did them during my install of the new unit.

Thanks. I’ll look into that. There was definitely no insulation around the unit, which I plan to add. Even if it doesn’t help the fridge, it’ll help keep the interior of the camper more comfortable.

Which Norcold did you use? N305?

I also added window screen to the back side of the upper and lower ventilation grills to keep wasp from building nest in there.

Good idea.

Our unit works great on propane and 120 volt when the vehicle is stationary. We still have to watch it closely when driving. My guess is the airflow down the side of the B190 can sometimes interfere with the normal convection cooling on the back side of the fridge.

That’s interesting. I didn’t think it would matter what way the air is going, just as long as it’s being removed from the coils. In addition to the convection issue with the side vent, I think our fridges are also at a disadvantage due to being right over the tire and axle - lots of sources of heat right under the fridge.

After cleaning the dust off the coils, I set the fridge up on our deck, which gets late morning and afternoon sun. After two hours in the shade, the freezer was already below freezing. The fridge portion was in the 60s, but it had only been two hours. If there’s a blockage, though, it seems pretty clear it’s in the fridge section.

It sounds like your unit is working. I usually see freezer reaching temp in hours and the fridge section reaches temp in a day.

Yes, it is a Norcold N300.3. There is an install thread here... https://b190.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=1036&hilit=norcold I added the baffles, insulation and bug screen at a later date.

It works well on 120v and propane. We don't use the 12 volt mode at all. The 12 volt heat is simply not robust enough to hold temperatures at highway speeds. We usually run it on propane while under way.

I'll pass this link along in case its helpful. These folks seem to have some level of knowledge about fan mods on our absorption fridges. I have no personal experience with them but they may be of interest to you?

Also, there are several threads on IRV2 forums about mods adding fans to absorption fridges. Might be some useful info there...

https://rvcoolingunit.com/

Kentuckian wrote:I'll pass this link along in case its helpful. These folks seem to have some level of knowledge about fan mods on our absorption fridges. I have no personal experience with them but they may be of interest to you?

Also, there are several threads on IRV2 forums about mods adding fans to absorption fridges. Might be some useful info there...

https://rvcoolingunit.com/

Thanks. Their kits are just computer fans!

I made a test baffle with some aluminum I had around from another project. I might cut another sheet to overlap so it covers the coils more fully.

After sitting here thinking about it, I think I understand the convection issue better now. The upper radiator releases heat, which draws cooler air from below. But it has to pull that cooler air from the fridge coils for them to work well enough.

(This setup is temporary - I plan to remove it and reinstall it after I put the fridge back in the camper. I’ll move it over and put a second sheet in to better cover the coils.)



45 and 11 at the moment inside the fridge.

This morning it was down to almost zero in the freezer and 30 in the fridge. It’s already back up to 37, before any sun hit it. I just put our table umbrella over it to keep it in the shade. We’ll see how it does with the temporary baffle and shade and a good head start on the day.